European consumers are remarkably conservative in their choice of facial skin care products. Despite a proliferation of new formats flooding the market, many from Korea, Europeans have yet to embrace the multi-step regimen favored by other cultures. Millennials, regarded as the key to growth in many consumer markets, may change all this and provide the engine for growth for the category.

According to Euromonitor, sales of facial skin care in Western Europe are expected to reach $14.7 billion in 2016, rising by 1.3%. Euromonitor estimates sales in Eastern Europe to be worth US $2.9 billion—dropping back 1.9% on the previous year. This follows very strong sales growth of 15.2% in 2014-15 and may be a sign that facial skin care is reaching maturity amongst east European consumers. This trend was particularly marked in Russia, where skin care sales soared by 23.4% in 2015 and are set to come crashing down 4.7% by the end of 2016.

Kantar Worldpanel reported that nearly three quarters of western European women use facial cleansing or care products, averaging 11.6 times per week. French women’s routine averages 13.3 times per week, indicating that they use products both morning and evening. By contrast, Italian women average 9.4 uses of facial skin care per week, suggesting that most use products on their face just once a day.

Much has been made of the growth in male facial skin care sales, but fewer than one in five men in Western Europe use facial cleansing or care products. French and Polish men use facial skin care slightly more than the average, while Italian men are the least engaged, as only 12.9% use skin care. On average, European men use facial skin care 6.2 times a week, rising to 7.2 times among Germans, suggesting that these consumers are using products such as cleansers and moisturizers as part of a daily routine. 

Multi-Taskers Don’t Multi-Step
K-beauty is synonymous with flawless skin achieved by using multiple products, but has yet to catch on with European women, who are more inclined to opt for a simpler skin care routine. The most used products are cleansing products, such as facial wash, cleanser and toner, and daily face moisturizer, by half the European female population. Usage of other product formats, such as wipes (18.4%) and eye makeup remover (2.9%) is considerably lower. The cleanse-moisturize routine is most established among French consumers (61.4% use cleansing products; 57.3% use daily face moisturizer) and adopted least by the Spanish (41.6% use cleansing products) and Italians (36.7% use daily face moisturizer).

GlobalData reports that European consumers are increasing their interest in skin care products that multi-task and recent launches suggest that they can be every bit as sophisticated as single-use products. For example, Roger & Gallet launched its Le Soin Aura Mirabilis Extra Fine Cleansing Mask in the UK in 2016, which functions as both a makeup remover, and a mask. Channeling the Korean trend for double cleanse products is Pixi + Caroline Hirons, an innovative two-in-one cleanser consisting of a jar divided into two with solid cleansing oil to remove makeup on one side and cleansing cream to cleanse and prep the skin on the other. The collaboration with Caroline Hirons, an influential UK beauty blogger, is one of the first of its kind in skin care. 

“Even though the Korean concept of using multiple beauty steps stands in opposition to the multi-functional trend, the idea of combining various facial skin care products to target different skin needs resonates with those seeking out more effective beauty solutions,” said Matthew Perry, associate analyst, GlobalData. Indeed, according to GlobalData’s 2016 research, 34% of European consumers agree that they would be willing to increase the number of products they use in their beauty regime to improve their appearance. Millennials are likely to be at the forefront of this trend. Perry believes that European manufacturers should look to capitalize on these multiple step opportunities, particularly as this approach can be linked to efficacy. He cites face masks as one such category. As an example, he pointed to L’Oréal Pure Clay Masks, which are aimed at millennials and are designed to be used in conjunction on different areas of the face according to skin care need. The three variants, Glow, Detox and Purify, can be used individually or in conjunction for a more bespoke skin care routine.

More Natural Approach
Strong European demand for facial skin  care products that contain more natural ingredients is developing with the inclusion of superfood ingredients in skin care product formulations linked to a growing trend for healthier diets and lifestyles. For example, GlobalData cited Youth to the People’s Age Prevention Cleanser, which contains 100% vegan ingredients such as cold pressed extracts of kale, spinach and green tea. Meanwhile, leading online beauty retailer Feelunique features a section on its website devoted to skin care products containing superfood ingredients, such as chia seeds (Perricone MD Chia Serum), avocado (Kiehl’s Creamy Eye Treatment), blueberries (Yes to Blueberries) and Goji Berry (Murad Redness Therapy Soothing Gel Cleanser). This is a trend set to run and run, if the current rage for clean eating/beauty is anything to go by.

Celebrating Age
According to Kantar Worldpanel, the most sought after feature in facial care products is anti-aging/anti-wrinkle, affirmed by 31.1% of European women. Yet, negative aging perceptions are evolving, according to GlobalData, which recorded 51% of seniors aged 55+ stating that they are not concerned about what age they look.

“For seniors, the trend is increasingly focused on celebrating your age, appreciating that everyone ages differently,” said Perry. Skin care manufacturers have been slow to acknowledge this change, with a few exceptions, including L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Golden Age, which promotes a “healthy-looking rosy glow” for a “gold, not old” look.

Conversely, it is the millennial demographic (18-34 year olds), who are most concerned with holding onto their looks. GlobalData research suggests that younger Europeans are much more appearance-conscious and hence more concerned with anti-aging benefits attached to facial skin care products compared to older generations. A move to a more positive pro-aging positioning may yet benefit skin care brands in years to come, as it is likely that today’s younger consumers will follow a similar approach to aging as they mature.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com